Beautiful beaches, sandunes, red hot sunshine... its tough at the top!

As promised on my last post. it's beaches all the way. Impanema Beach in Rio was a lovely beach helped by the amount of beautiful Brazilian women wandering around wearing very skimpy bikinis. The only problem was due to the weather being a little overcast I only went to the beach a few times. A lot of my time spent in Impanema was slowly walking around taking in the surroundings and the views - as well as the lush women! I did manage to visit the famous christ statue one day which was well impressive. The views over Rio from the hill that the statue stands on were amazing. Luckily at first the weather was reasonably clear especially on the coast, so photos could be taken. Also managed to get some good photos of the statue before the clouds came in.
From Rio I took a 3 hour flight to the northern coastal city of Fortaleza. Not a bad city but the best part is the coastline and the hostel I was staying in, was right on the beach. I could almost fall out of bed and onto the beach. Here in the north the weather is a lot clearer and red hot. Spent a few days kicking around on the beach, mind you at the moment I can only stand a few hours on the beach as it's so hot.
From Fortaleza I headed again north to the beach resort of Jericoacoara which I have to say, was awesome. It's so isolated a 4 wheel drive truck come bus, meets the main bus to take you the final hour over the sandunes to the beach resort. I was in my element there as the scenery was amazing with mile after mile of beach surrounded by giant sandunes. It was great to go walking down the beach taking photographs. The whole area of Jericoacoara is a national park so you can imagine the views were spectacular. There were even some OK sunsets, which I took advantage of, by sitting having an ice cold beer on the beach until it was time to drag myself off to take some shots. Jericoaoara is famous for windsurfing as when you head out to sea or on top of the sandunes where it is exposed it's well windy. But, in the village and on the beach in front of the dunes there is a lovely breeze. Did not spend a lot of time on the beach as I got burned in Fortaleza. Yes, I would like to think I was too old, wise and experienced a traveller to get burned, but there I was walking around looking like the singing detective! I made do with spending time chilling, reading a book and maybe having a siesta in a hammock, oh how the days fly by!
One day I did manage get out of the hammock and go on a beach buggy tour for the day. They take you deeper into Jericoacoara National Park where there was some really good sandunes of different colours. We ended up at a lake spot in the middle of the dunes, like an oasis. A great spot to relax and have a beer and some very fresh fish. The one I picked was still swimming round when I chose it. With the food, drink and photos taken, a perfect day was had by all.
At the moment I am back in Fortaleza where, from here I will now head south overland back to Rio ready to fly back to Blighty, Christ!!!
I hope to send a couple more blogs - so stay tuned. Nothing left but to wish you all a Merry Crimbo and a Happy New Year... the bear

p.s. if this post has not made too much sense - I apologise, as two local girls have been all over me, distracting me and taking the piss out of my two finger typing - how dare they!!!

The Real Deal...this time!

OK readers, as promised here they are. And no it's not Costa Rica, it's the real ones this time!
Thanks to Figgis for getting the photos to M&K. Just to save confusion, Bear is NOT in Costa Rica or The Galapagos, he's in Brazil, the 'new' photos are ones which I've only just got hold of.
Anyways, enough & enjoy these amazing photos...
Coops

Argentina finished with a football feast!

Well I spent some time in Buenos Aires which I have to say was an excellent city. Good cafes and bars to sit in and watch the world go by and plenty of places to visit and hang around. Oh, and the weather was pretty good as well. I have to admit I did some serious drinking especially as the hostel I was staying in was a party place. Plenty of good people there as well, so there was always something going down every night. Could not believe it when watching footie on the TV the guy next to me was from Stoke, Bignal End. Talk about a small world. I was even more impressed when his mate told me he was a close relative of the great Dennis Smith, ex Stoke captain and one of the best players never to play for England. Let me tell you - beers were drunk and songs were sung!
At the hostel, like I said, every night something was going on. DJs, party nights, clubs, my god the whole time I was there I rarely got to bed before am. Did manage to make it to a local football game to watch Boca Juniors and what an experience that was! I thought us English lads liked our footie but Boca Juniors take it to another level. The whole stadium is going mental the whole game. It was an amazing sight when you look over to the opposite end and see the whole crowd chanting and dancing around and the noise is deafening. The opposition fans who were positioned above where we were also a little up for it, throwing tiles off the floor at us through the metal grills along with fire crackers and bottles of pop - nice! At one point they were banging something on the floor above us and I thought they were going to come down on top of us. All in all it was a great experience made better by the 4- nil win by the mighty Boca's.
I stayed a little longer in Buenos Aires than planned so I could also watch Argentina play Bolivia which I thought was a rare treat. This game was played at River Plate's stadium, which is the other main team in B.A. The stadium was a real big 'un and you even got a seat - unlike the Bocas game. Enjoyed watching the likes of Messi and Raquilmes playing. That Messi is some player and he was on fine form, some of the runs and turns he did took me back to my youth (HA - yeah right). Again the atmosphere was great but not quite as intense as the Bocas game.
In the end I managed to get myself away from Buenos Aires with my liver just about in tact. My next stop was Iguazu Falls which is right on the border of Argentina and Brazil. Managed to go to both side of the falls which is well worth while. The Argentinean side was my favourite as there is more to see and do. I have to say the falls are amazing probably the best waterfalls I have seen. There is said to be around 275 falls over a frontage of 2,470m and let me tell you there is a serious amount of water cascading over these falls. On the Argentinean side you can do a upper and lower walkway with excellent views. Including getting right over the top of one of the big boys which is an amazing sight. The size of them and amount of water joined with the deafening raw is mesmerising, helped with a nice spray giving you a welcoming cool down as it was red hot. The highlight was taking a boat out right under the falls and getting a serious soaking and it taking your breath away.
The Brazilian side is not as big but it does give you panoramic views of each section of the falls. Again you finish right over the top of a section of waterfall with great views. Managed to get some good photographs of the falls but it was impossible to show the sheer scale of them, but hey - I had a good go.
At the moment I have just landed in Rio de Janeiro where I am staying at Ipanema beach which is the next beach down from Copacabana. Great to be by the beach and ocean again as it has been a while. Hard to believe Brazil will be my last country visited here. Should be good to spend the final time on the beach by the ocean. Will be in touch soon with talk of paradise beaches... the bear

Ooops...

Sorry folks - I made a bit of a b***s up!
The 'Galapagos Photos' are not of The Galapagos at all. It turns out that they are from Costa Rica and/or Panama. Mmmmm... easy mistake - not! So we still await the arrival of the missing files but, at least we got to see more of Costa Rica. And, you gotta admit - they are bloody good!!!

You've probably noticed that we're having a bit of a re-build at the moment, so things may look a bit messy for a few days. Hopefully we should be sorted soon.

So apologies for the mix up with the Galapagos and watch this space for the genuine shots coming soon...

Coops

Patagonia, its massive and its windy... but christ the sights are awesome!

Over the last few weeks while in Patagonia I have done some long coach journeys and got some serious mileage under my belt. The long journeys have been well worth the effort for the rewards are great. After my last post from Baraloche I went to Puerto Madryn which is famous for being the main stop off point to see whales. At the moment they are in the breeding season, around Peninsular Valdes just outside Puerto Madryn. I did a day tour to the peninsular to view the whales as well as elephant seals and penguins, all up close. The whales were amazing as we got to see plenty of them and really close. The highlight was when one whale came right up to the boat and actually nudged the boat right below where I was standing, that close I could not even get a photo of it, just standing there gorping at it! Managed to get a couple of shots of some tail action but with them having young they were not playing much. The boat cruise was quite hard work as I was well hung over after a few too many of the local brew (Quilmes), after watching England's sporting effort over the week finally end with Hamilton blowing the F1 title.
After the wildlife viewing, the two English guys I was travelling with (and myself) headed back over the border into Chile to the famous Torres de Paine National Park on a 4 day trek. On this trek we were not doing any camping, thank god as it was well windy there. We were staying in nice dry warm hostels and having food cooked for us, which is nice. The weather was OK apart from the first day where we got seriously pissed on, Christ it was worse than Snowdonia on a bad day! I have to say though, over all, it was one of the most scenic treks I have ever done. The sights were so varied with snow peaked mountains next to cream coloured mountains, lakes of different colours and some serious glaciers thrown in - a photographer's paradise. The main glacier was massive as well going on far as I could see it finished off with sheer ice walls dropping into a huge lake. Overall, I reckon we did around 65 kilometres over the 4 days. The main difference between this one and other treks I have done on this trip is Torres de Payne; not as high altitude and not as much sheer up-hill as the others. Still, me legs and feet were well tender for a few days.
The next stop was back over in Argentina at Calafate which is the stop off point for the Glaciers National Park. The main reason for coming here was to see Perito Moreno glacier and if I thought the glacier in Torres de Payne was big - this boy was the daddy! Its one of the only glaciers in the world that is still moving and the size of it is breathtaking. The front of it is over 5 kilometres long with a height of 60 metres and against a lush turquoise lake and surrounded by snow peaked mountains. We did a boat cruise which takes you right up to the front of the glacier to get a good close up view of it. Again - My God it was windy and cold up on the top of the boat but the Bear was last down after having to change memory cards in my camera I was getting that carried away with the photos. After the boat cruise we went down to a series of viewing platforms near one end of the glacier giving good views of the glacier, lake and surrounding mountains. I have seen some sights on my travels but this baby had my jaw well on the floor, amazing!
Calafate was my last stop in Patagonia and we then took the longest bus journey I have ever done, to Buenos Aires, around 40 hours. I now know what cabin fever is like, I could have kissed the tarmac when we arrived. Buenos Aires is a great city and the last stop I was with Phil and The Sweed. They were top lads and I had a good laugh with them and a very messy Saturday night out where we stumbled out of a club at 7 am to the amusement of a few locals. At the moment I am still in Buenos Aires and will probably stay till after the weekend as I might go watch Argentina play Bolivia. I will send another post let you all know what it was like, plus the Boca Juniors game I went to watch a few days ago which was amazing. Shall be in touch soon... the bear

Another Summit Conquered...

The last time I spoke to you all I was in Pucon waiting for a good day to climb to the top of a nearby volcano. I decided to go for Sunday which gave me a few days wait but, the weather forecast for Sunday was good. I could have gone for the climb on the Thursday with a couple of Irish guys who were staying at the same hostel. When the weather on Thursday morning was clear I thought I had missed my chance. When the lads got back and told me they had not managed to reach the summit as it was so hard going, I was slightly concerned. Add the fact the weather turned dreadful Friday and Saturday I thought it was not meant to be. Imagine how happy I was when I woke up on Sunday morning and the weather was perfect!!!
After getting kitted out with all the gear for walking in snow we were off... It was quite hard going and strange to be walking in deep snow. The views as we started to climb were well worth the effort though. On the last section it was particularly tough as it was well steep and windy but I managed to get to the summit. It was not as hard going as I thought it was going to be after talking to the Irish boys, I even (get this) DID NOT have a beer the night before so I would be more up for it. The views from the summit were awesome and you got a great view into the crater where the volcano is still well active. Did not manage to see bubbling lava but you could see the glow of the lava and the smoke pouring out. After a little time at the summit it was time to get back down. What a good laugh it was on the way down, you got to slide down by lying on your back with your legs in the air. Took me back to me younger days sliding down rollie polly hill on a plastic bag. Christ I got some speed up on the steep parts thinking I would never slow down in time, it was worth the wet arse I got! The whole day was perfect in the end and the weather did me proud. Mind you, I was hurting for the next couple of days or so, especially from the boots they provided you with. Felt great to get to another summit.
After Pucon I left for Baralochi which is in Argentina's lake district. Again the scenery was well nice with a back drop of snow peaked mountains as well as the lake scene. Baralochi is also a really cool tourist town, with the usual Argentinean goodies. Managed to get some good photos here as well as eating the best steak ever! Met a couple of lads from England so I have seriously been on the lash. It is definitely hard work all this drinking and sporting feast going on. Mind you with that clown Mclaren in charge of England with his sit back tactics it's enough to drive any man to drink. Heading more south in Patagonia, next stop Puerto Madryn where the whales are. I am hoping the camera gets a serious work out here.
Shall be in touch soon... the bear

Drinking Beer & Watching Sport - a great pastime...

I have to admit I have not done much in the way of travelling and sight seeing since my last post. Sometimes you just have to put the camera and guide book away and kick back.
I did manage to go to Valparaiso a couple of hours away from Santiago by bus. Valparaiso is a nice city with a plus side of being on the coast, so it was nice to be next the ocean again. Its also best known for its many hills rising from the mad city below. Its quite cool how you have the hustle and bustle of a major city and then a short but steep walk up to the quiet of the hill districts. As well as having great views over the city and coastline below there loads of art cafes, bars and bright coloured buildings. Great spot for a quiet coffee or alcoholic beverage (can be a tough choice at times). With the views - I did manage to get the camera out after finding a good view point which was hard work walking up and down them hills. There looked to be a nearby beach resort that sounded ok but the time I chose to go, it was overcast and grim so I gave it a miss.
After Valparaiso I went back to Santiago and the same hostel I stayed in before as it was good hostel with good facilities (a good bar with big screen TV). As you can imagine with the sporting feast that was on over last weekend I was a happy man. Imagine if you can, watching England play Australia in the rugby world cup quarter finals with a load of Aussies and then winning. The grief I gave them was sheer bliss and I do not know much when it comes to rugby but so what, you don't get many chances give the Aussies some grief. Oh the joy when I waved them goodbye at the end of the game, thanks for coming lads! You can imagine that after a couple of premiership games and more rugby games a lot of beer was drunk.

Sunday I felt a little grim but was cheered up when watching the Scotland vs. Argentina game, a couple of jocks walked in the bar. Does it get any better than this? My mates Pie and Harvey who live in Jock land will appreciate the grief I gave them. After the Argie victory I nearly went out and bought but Argentinean rugby top. I have to admit there were some good people in the hostel so I was doing some serious partying until 2 and 3 in the morning. I was almost glad when I actually left Santiago - feeling like I was pickled in alcohol. At the moment I am in Pucon in the lake district which, on first view is lush. Loads of lakes surrounded by volcanoes and mountains. There is a snow peaked volcano that you can climb nearby which has my name on it! I am waiting for a decent days weather to climb the baby so cross your fingers for me and I'll will be in touch soon to let you know how I went on.
Laters!... the bear

Mountain Mania 2 - the mountain bear returns...

Well since the last post I sent from Cordoba the scenery has got steadily more spectacular. Before I left Cordoba I did a trip to the surrounding area around Cordoba which was nice. The area was mainly mountain valleys and lakes. The main highlight was taking a chair lift to the top of a mountain for good views of the valleys. The chair lift I took was like what you get at the ski resorts. I laughed thinking how Baggaley would have reacted as he is scared of heights, the big girl!
After Cordoba I went to Mendoza which as all you quaffers know is wine country. I did a tour of a couple of wineries, it would be rude not to. Great to get to the tasting part - managing to get a taste of quite a few wines. Even bought a bottle as it was so cheap for the quality of wine. Took a couple of bottles back to the hostel and did some serious quaffing only stopping to go eat a massive thick steak. Hey you gotta do it to soak up the wine. It's unbelievable how many different wines there are in the restaurants, Christ the wine list is like reading the bible there are so many.
Took a day trip to the surrounding mountains, where the mountain scenery was outstanding. If you like mountains like me, I have to say it was up there as one of the most scenic roads I have been on. As good as the scenery was, the actual tour and the guide were rubbish. His first photo stop may as well have been in a powerstation there were so may pylons and wires. Uninterrupted views of panoramic snow peaked mountains and he stops there. He also very rarely stopped so as you can imagine was like a caged tiger wanting to get out of the vehicle take some shots. I had to bite my tongue stop myself telling the tour guide he was a clown. We did manage to stop in a couple of good spots right up in the mountains to get some good photos. So yes Janet - me camera finger was going ballistic. Coop - you can expect the photos to be coming thick and fast. (not as good as the photo of Lord Vader George) Even went on another trip to a massive canyon south of Mendoza which again was well worth a look. I enjoyed my stop in Mendoza, a good spot with great wine and again great steak plus good things to see nearby.
After Mendoza I headed to Chile and Santiago up the same mountain route I took earlier. When I got over the border the mountain scenery on the Chilean side was even better as you are right up at the top of the mountains surrounded by snow peaked mountains over 6,000 metres. You even have the chair lifts coming over the bus taking the skiers to the ski slopes. Santiago is a nice city, again its a big un with everything you need here, even if it is more expensive than all the other countries I have been to in the Americas. Today, here, I have seen something different - coffee shops like hooters - yes believe me. The waitresses who are absolutely lush all wearing tight, short, low cut dresses. Some of the best views I have seen while drinking coffee. Looks like my coffee habit is about to get alot worse!!!
On that note I will say
laters my friends....the bear

I'm not saying anything!!!

The only thing I can say is... sorry George.

Team GB...

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Argentina!... the streets are paved with steak and wine.

Greetings to everyone...
Well I had heard the rumours about Argentina - the lush steak and red wine - let me tell you, the rumours are true. I have been in Argentina for 10 days now and I have to admit I have eaten steak on nine occasions, yes its that good. I swear it's a good 2 inches thick and it melts in the mouth. The wine is also amazing and so cheap, put the two together and let the good times roll. I really should have a night off the steak, especially as I am getting heartburn, but as they say no pain no gain. By the time I get back I will have a big belly and a nose like Alex Ferguson!
My first stop in Argentina was Salta which was a really nice city with good colonial buildings. The weather was lush, great walking around in shorts and t-shirt in the day and even comfortable in a t-shirt at night. What's great about Argentina is European standards and cheap prices. There are outside cafes and bars where you can chill and watch the world (well, beautiful women) go by. This is probably why I stayed in Salta for 8 days plus the hostel I stayed at there were people to party with. I did manage to do a couple of excursions though to the surrounding area. The scenery was again very good with a lot of different coloured mountains and gorges plus some more salt flats. So as you can imagine the camera finger was clicking. It killed me getting up at 6 in the morning after a belly full of steak, wine, beer and a late night. Christ I must be getting too old for it! I was getting a rollicking off the tour guide as I was falling asleep during the tour, mind you she was boring me to death bless her. I nearly told her leave me alone I am only here for the scenery and the photos, I ain't bothered what the are plants called.
At the moment I am in Cordoba, a city south east of Salta and let me tell you it's a big 'un. I have spent the day mainly getting lost its that big. Plenty of steak houses though. There is supposed to be some nice scenery again in the surrounding area so I shall check that out in the next couple of days. Next stop - I will head west to Mendoza which is said to be big mountain country and I do like me mountains!
So long for now.....the bear

There's That Look Again!

OK readers - George sent me a few photos of Team GB this week, I'm sorry (Marge) but there's a couple of corkers. This is one of 'em! I couldn't resist, this is begging for a caption to be added. So folks, do your worst! I've added my own feeble attempt, I'm sure you can do better than mine. Add your caption as you would with a comment & we'll add the best one to The Bear's web-album (unlucky son!) I'll put another mug-shot up in a few days time (George - you're next!). Remember keep it (reasonably) clean - his mother's watching!

(click the title of this post to view all captions added)

"I say old boy - it would be awfully decent of you to point that camera elsewhere!"

A trip down the mines, a face full of teargas - Bolivia is done!

At the moment I am in a town called Tupiza in South Bolivia and today is my last day in Bolivia.
Since my last post I have been to the cities of Potosi and Sucre. Potosi was a nice city but bloody cold as it was over 4000 metres high. The main thing I did here was a visit to a working mine. What an experience that was! After getting kitted up with the overalls, boots, miners hat and lamp we set off for the mine, stopping off at the miners market to buy some supplies for them. You could buy pop, coca leaves, fags and some dynamite which was nice and cheap. Once down the mine it was hard to believe that there was actually people working down there. The conditions were rough as, with thick dust and Christ knows what gasses in the air. At times we were crawling down small tunnels where you could hardly fit. The miners were pulling and pushing carts full of rocks which must have weighed a couple of tonnes sweating their asses off! I was knackered just walking and crawling, especially with the altitude. No wonder the life expectancy of the miners is around 40 years old. Next time I am not happy at work I will think of them Bolivian punks down the mines. I was well glad to come out of there after a couple of hours to get some fresh air and blow up some extra dynamite we bought. Christ that dynamite has got some kick!
After Potosi, it was just a few hours journey to Sucre which most of it was downhill. First impression was how good the climate was as we were now well below 3000metres. Great to walk around at night without loads of layers on. Sucre was a nice laid back city even though there were a few demonstrations going on. One afternoon I was out for a quiet coffee in one of the many lush coffee bars. As I approached the main square I could see a large crowd had gathered and the atmosphere was looking a little strained. There was shouting, smoke & fireworks going off, kind of like a Stoke / Cardiff game. I was just thinking if there was another coffee shop away from the plaza when my eyes starting stinging and I could not breath. The smoke was obviously tear-gas that the police had fired into the mob and it had blown down in the bear's direction. That stuff is sodding lethal, it took me ages to get away from it. Back at my hotel I was throwing water all over me stop the burning. I thought sod the coffee! It all died down later and I could get my coffee or should I say large cold beer!
I took a night bus to Tupiza which took less time than they told me and I ended up in Tupiza at 3.30am. The night porter at the hostel did not seem a happy bunny when I woke him up to let me in. Tupiza as a town goes has naff all but there is some descent surrounding scenery. Believe it or not I was persuaded to do some horse riding, Yes! - you heard right horse riding!
It was only for 3 hours and let me tell you my arse is still hurting. Actually it was a good laugh as the stupid horse kept on running for the fun of it. Picture me with my camera trying to take shots, bouncing around on the back of a horse. I now know there is no way John Wayne could shoot other blokes while galloping on a horse - impossible.
The following day I did a jeep tour (a lot easier on the old arse) to the surrounding mountains, which was good with great scenery of coloured mountains. Tomorrow I take a bus to the border and into Argentina where my first stop will be Salta.
Shall be in touch soon after so take care... the bear

From The Red Hot Amazon to the Freezing Cold Salt Flats... Viva Bolivia!

A quick thanks for the happy birthday shouts, cheers, it means a lot.

I have been covering some miles over the last couple of weeks. Firstly took a flight to a place called Rurrenabaque on the Bolivian Amazon. Mind you I nearly missed the bloody plane as I was in the wrong part of the airport - not my fault the tour agency wrote the wrong place down. The airline had to send a maintenance truck over pick me up - bless 'em. Managed to arrive no worries in Rurrenabaque even if the runway was just a field! Went straight on my tour into the Amazon which started with a three hour drive on a dust road, then a two hour boat journey. Mind you, the boat journey was great as there was loads of wildlife, like crocodiles, pink dolphins and loads of birds. We stayed at camp by the river which was quite comfortable and the food was lush. Did a night time boat ride which was cool to see the crocs eyes looking at you and bats swooping down close to you.
Next day we went searching for anacondas in swamps and bogs, this time I had wellie gogs on but yes, it got so deep in parts it flowed over. To top it off we saw no anacondas as it was a little overcast so they were in hiding,what can you do when your wellies let in!?! I had to laugh as when we got back to camp the guide saw and caught, a couple of snakes. Spent four hours looking for any kind of snake in their prime habitat with no luck and they are there, right where we were staying - typical! Enjoyed the next day as we got to swim with the pink dolphins. They were a little shy but a good experience especially when you are in the water looking at the crocs looking at you. Also got to do some fishing for Piranas which I managed to bag a couple. They have some nashers on them I tell ya! The other people on the tour were cool, so managed a night on the lash with them when we got back to Rurrenabaque. It was good to have some nice hot weather especially at night, great to go out on the pop with just a Tshirt on. Was not long though untill I was back in sunny, but cold La Paz.

After a few more days in La Paz, I went to Uyuni which is the jumping off point to the highest salt flats in the world. Again, did a three day jeep tour to the salt flats and multi coloured lakes. You spent a lot of time in the jeep but the views were amazing. The salt flats were cool, with the bright white salt going on for as far as the eye could see. But the scenery after the salt flats was just amazing, it was hard to take photos to do it justice. The amount of different colours to the landscape is hard to describe. The highlights were Lake Verde which was a bright green colour with a volcano backdrop and Lake Colarado which was bright orange. My god, at night and on the third day it was bloody freezing especially with the wind which was blowing a hoolie! Hard to take photos when you are being blown off your feet and your eyes are full of tears. Still the whole three days with the scenery was amazing. My birthday here, I will remember as mainly being stuck in a jeep for fourteen hours apart for food stops & photo stops with a one year old kid, screaming his sodding head off! You people with young children have my sympathy. I could not even get a hot shower when I got back to Uyuni on my birthday night so, I had a few beers and wine smelling like a dog. No change there then.
At the moment I am in Potosi which is a nice spot - with red hot showers. Next stop, Sucre then probably Argentina...
Oh yes - I shall be on touch again soon with stories of big steaks, fine wines and lush women, until then my friends -
be good... the bear

Happy Birthday Bear!

A quick post to wish Bear a very Happy Birthday from all back in the UK!

A new album of photos of Lake Titicaca & THE worst road you've ever seen as featured in Bear's last post: Peru is done & Lance Armstrong is back in the saddle! have been uploaded.

Click here to check 'em out.

Earthquakes in Peru.

Had a message from Bear yesterday (Sun 19th Aug) to say he's been in the middle of the Bolivian Amazon & as you can image out of touch with the outside world. He's just arrived in a town with internet and found out about the devastating earthquakes in Peru. Fortunately he (& George) had been and already left the affected area(s). Although Nazca was pretty close apparently. So this is just a quick note to say he's OK and everything's cool.
Indiana Bear rides on - The legend continues...

Peru is done & Lance Armstrong is back in the saddle!

Greetings from La Paz, Bolivia.
Well after a good six weeks in Peru I finally left for Bolivia. Managed on the way down south to stop off at Nazca to do a flight over the famous Nazca lines which was good as I managed to get the seat next to the pilot. Good all round view but he would not let me have a go at flying, but hey you gotta ask. My last stop in Peru was Puno, close to the Bolivian border and on the massive lake Titikaka. Puno, as cities go was not the best, but I did find one descent bar even if it was so cold at night the beer did not flow so well. The reason I was there though was for a tour on the lake and it did not disappoint. Took a tour to two islands the first one was made entirely of reeds even the local boats were made out of reeds. In fact they even ate the sodding things. After getting used to the fact I would not fall through into the lake I enjoyed my time there and managed to get some good shots. The next island was a standard solid ground affair but still lovely views from the walk we did to the main square. In the main square there was a bonus of the locals doing a dance in traditional dress. A good day had by all ended by a nice sunset on the way to Puno…
its tough at the top.

My first stop in Bolivia was again on lake Titikaka in Copacabana (not Barry Manilow country) Unknown to me it was a National Holiday, Christ it was bedlam! More people than you could poke a stick at and the town had turned into one giant market. Eventually got a good room actually but right opposite was some spare ground where they had a stage set up for a local live band. I thought it wont go on long its cold at night they will be done for midnight latest. Four sodding thirty they are still bang at it, so loud its sounds like they are in my room with me. I would not mind but the band was dreadful, whoever told them they could sing wants lynching. After that brilliant nights sleep (not) I was up early for another session on Titikaka. Spent the day on Sun Island where I got transport to the north of the island then walked for four hours to the south. The views were lush of the other islands and the deep blue of Lake Titikaka and in parts the snow capped mountains in the back ground. The towns and cities were average around Titikaka but the lake scenery was well impressive.

My next stop after the lake was La Paz which I like, its more modern in the centre than I thought it would be but it still has an edge to it in places. Spent a few days in La Paz then I did a mountain bike tour from La Paz to Coroico in the lowlands. Yes, I was back on a bike and dangerous – never mind the actual road. You start up at around 4.300 metres then motor downhill for fifty kilometres or more to Coroico. At first the road is tarmac so no worries I’m leaning into the corners like my mate Barry Sheen! Then later on you hit the old gravel road and it gets a little serious as you see the road ahead hugging the mountain sides with sheer drops. If you slipped off the edge it would be an E.T moment - one flying bike! I had a glance a couple of times over the edge as I was motoring down Christ it was unnerving. I was in my element off roading, flying down the mountain roads at one point I did not notice my group had stopped and went flying past, my guide had to radio ahead to anther group to tell them stop me. Mind you I was thinking Christ where is everyone I am flying on this bike and I ain’t caught them up, you get that? I loved the whole day as you even stopped for photos on route - my kind of tour. Eventually got to Coroico where I was the only one staying there, the rest came back to La Paz. What a good decision I made the hotel I stayed was lush with swimming pool, sauna, bar and the room I got - let the good times roll! I had a balcony with an amazing view over all the mountains. I could sit there with my camera and a beer and take photos of the mountains, it don’t get any better than that, not for folks like us.
With being low altitude, the weather was well hot, great to wear flip flops and do a little sun worshiping by the pool, oh yes again with a nice cool beer in hand.
Well I’m back in La Paz ready for the next stop... The Amazon.
For now - laters... the bear.

Big Mountain Country & The Camping Gets Hardcore!

Just got back from another 4 day 3 night trek in the Peruvian Andes near the city of Huaraz.
I will start by saying that the mountains scenery and lakes were amazing but Christ it was hard work with the camping lark. My mate George thought the camping was tough on the Inca trail -I'm here now to tell you all it was 4 star my friends. It was good when sitting in a great coffee shop in Huaraz I looked up to see the flying dutchman, Mart who George mentioned was on the Inca trail with us. After a chat he was looking to go on the Santa Cruz trek same as me, so away we went. The start for me was slightly painful after one to many cocktails the night before!
We started with a bus ride to the start of the trek, my god I took a turn for the worst sitting there with a cold sweat thinking Christ this trek is the least of my problems. I managed to pull myself together especially with the views we had from the bus. Stopped off at a beautiful lake and at the top of a high pass with breathtaking views of the valley and snow capped mountains. Luckily the first day there was only 4 hours of walking to the first campsite. Half an hour before we got to camp we come across a bog and I'm not talking toilets! - chance would be a fine thing! After studying the layout I decided there was a solid mound I could jump over to. Wrong - I landed on it and disappeared up to my sodding knees in shitty water, I was absolutely soaked and not a happy bunny. To top it off I then melted my bloody shoes in the fire trying to get them dry but at least they were dry (crispy). You gotta laugh especially as the camp site was well primitive even for an hairy arsed building site worker. There was no toilet, no running water - only a nearby stream. Also my mate (the flying Dutchman) picked the crappest tent in the world. It was a small two man tent which was OK if you are a mummy or in a coma. The guide was also the cook, a good guy but not the quickest chef in the world. We ate at around 9.30 that night while the rain fell for an hour or so. You guessed it the tent was as waterproof as a wendy house. The whole sides of the tent were soaking meaning so was your sleeping bag but at least my melted shoes were dry. The next morning the tent was covered in ice and there was thick frost everywhere but when I got out that tent - the sky was totally clear giving amazing views of the surrounding mountains. The second day's walking was really hard going but the views were just amazing. We walked from a height of 3,700 metres up to a pass of 4,800 metres and, George, it was even tougher than Dead Women's pass on the Inca Trail. Again though, the view from the top of this pass with snow capped mountains right up close, with the valley below. After a cold night it was clear skies again the next day giving clear views of another range of mountains - me camera got a serious workout! One good thing was people went back to Huaraz early, meaning me and Mart got to choose a better tent. The difference was amazing to think a waterproof tent even though on the last night it did not rain, that's the Joe Mangel (gamble). After saying my goodbyes to Mart who was taking a night bus after the trek, sick man! I was in a bar in Huaraz - yes, the one I got in a mess the night before the trek. I was talking to some bloke when in walked Barney a guy who was on my Galapagos island cruise! He was with two girls and had also got back from a trek. I joined them for a drink and the early night I had promised myself went out the window. We went on to a club until around 2 a.m, its tough at the top!
Over all, a great 4 days and 4 nights. Funny how you soon forget the rough camping and just remember how amazing the trek was...
the bear

The Return of The Mighty George.

Well where do I start? Over the years Bear has been dossing about around the world I always said I would meet up with him somewhere, Everest for example but I never got out of bloody Stoke! So this time I bloody made it and what a great decision it was. Obviously the travel over there was a pain in the butt and to be honest a little intimidating at first. After the long flight it was a quick breakfast then off again to Cusco. Straight away when we arrived I noticed the altitude with me gasping for air a little at first. We then found a lovely hostel to stay near the main square not far from the local pubs! Cusco itself was a well smart place and was a really good base to explore the surrounding sites in which have got to agree with my mate that Sacsayhuaman was the most impressive even though when we got there I had some major sunburn on my neck, that's the gamble if you forget to bring suncream! The next day we went on a private trip to the Sacred Valley which brought us some more magical views of the mountains and by this time I thought Bears camera was going to blow up it was been used that much! Saying that though this is when I started to bond with my Fuji s5600 which Chris (2g's) Baggerly had lent me (nice one fat fingers). The highlight of the day was the Inca site of Ollantaytambo which was superb. Then the day had arrived - THE INCA TRAIL . We where picked up at 5am which was no problem after a cup of cocoa tea Christ that stuff is great for the morning! The first day we were told, was the easiest which was true but was no walk in Hanley park with much of it uphill & the heat of the sun bearing down on you. Then we get onto camping. Let just say I won't be rushing out down the local camping store to buy a tent. First night was a novelty which lasted about 5 hours! When that bloody cockerel kicked off. The second day was really hard work with the climb to Dead Women's pass but it was worth the sweat to get those views. Again as Bear says the third day was the best with the many Inca sites, different sorts of countryside and not many steep climbs. Mind you the decent down 1000 Inca steps was harsh on the old knees and I thought my left calf was going to explode. Then finally on the 4th day it was to the holy grail Machu Picchu. Up at 3:30 am after a crap nights sleeps in that bloody tent it was the final climb to what we had come for. To be honest I thought that all the guides etc where really building the place up too much compared to the already superb sites we had seen. WRONG - what a place, it takes your breath away (or was that the altitude again?) By this time I had become a right camera mad tourist and could not get enough shots of the place just awesome. All in all the Inca trail is the best thing I've ever done and would encourage anyone to save your pennies and get over there. The group we had were a great bunch and I think myself and Bear kept them entertained by our stupid humour. Although the Polish women had faces like a slapped arse most of the time which was a shame. Next day - what a come down! How do you top that? That day turned out to be a weird one which started with ourselves having to move hotels to a 4 star place! Then bumping into Martin the flying Dutchman off the trek, then whilst enjoying a beer & watching football with Bear & Martin 3 more fellow trekkers (Abbi, Rachael & Nigel) walk in the pub. As Bear said I got a little carried away but I think I will leave it at that! The second was a times hard work with all the striking going on around Arequipa (or harry kipper as it is known). Again it was a lovely city situated in a valley below a volcano. We dropped on another well smart hostel, I tell you the Bear finds the places. (are you reading Baggerly?) The Colca Canyon was another highlight with those bloody condors well impressive. Unfortunately then it was time to start thinking about going home. What a bummer! I was so tempted to stay another week or even to tell work to sod off but there you go I didn't and so last night I was back in the bloody Red Cow again, oh how the so called "mighty" have fallen. All in all I had the time of my life and it was great to see Bear on form again. We had a right good laugh and he might just see me sooner than he thinks.
You never know.
George.

(posted by coop on behalf of George)

Cuba

Cuba & Belize.

Peruvian George... he came, we saw, we conquered.

Well it’s been a great last couple of weeks with the Mighty George in Peru.
After a long journey he finally made it to Lima after a six-hour delay. It did not end there as I had booked a flight from Lima to Cuzco giving George a few hours sleep and some breakfast before heading back to the airport.
Welcome to Peru George.
Cuzco was a well nice spot with some good cafes and bars so we soon put them to the test. After a day kicking around Cuzco we went north of Cuzco to some Inca sites which were well impressive especially Sacsayhuman which had some massive stones built into a wall. The workmanship in the wall was amazing - them Incas had some bloody good brickies in their time, the stones fit together so well there was no compo or pointing up let me tell ya!
The views from the area were well worth the trip with Cuzco below and the valley with snow peaked mountains. A good day had by all.
We also did a trip to the Sacred Valley in a private vehicle for the day. Again the Inca sites and surrounding area was amazing. Nice to have a private guide giving us all the spiel on the Incas. Even managed to even fit some football in, watching the Copa America and George thought there would be no football!
On Thursday morning we started the Inca trail, which, I have to say now was on the whole a major highlight. The trek was four days and at times hard work especially the second day as it was all uphill. The highest point we climbed to was at Dead Woman’s Pass – at 4200 metres, it’s nearly as high as base camp Werrington! I think George will agree that the second day was the hardest but the third day had the best scenery. Oh and camping is shit, I’m sorry but it just is. Mind you without the ropey camping there would have been no comedy moments from George and The Bear. Some of the comments are not printable but they made the fellow trekkers smile. There was a good group of people on the trek, apart from the rude Polish women - mind you if I looked like them I would have a monk on to. On the last morning of the trek we were woken at the rude hour of 3.30am but after you your first view of Machu Picchu all the hard work is worth it. The place really lives up to the hype one of the places you must see before you die, awesome. The weather was a little cloudy but clear at first so that was all good then to top it all off the sun came out and the surrounding mountains and valleys were all in view.
It was good to almost have the place to yourself at first before the muppets come up on the train. Christ by midday it was like Butlins - time for the trekkers to head down to the nearby town and have a few well earned beers.
After the highs of the Inca trail and a day relaxing in Cuzco we headed south to Arequipa on a nightmare bus journey. Should have been nine hours turning into thirteen after the delays. My mate was struggling due to a late night out with some fellow trekkers. I went home like a good boy should, early, ready for the 06.30 start, my mate staggered in at 2am oh the smile I had when I woke him at 05.45. I will let him tell you all what he was up to till 2am bless him.
Arequipa was a bit of a nightmare due to the locals striking and putting rocks all over the surrounding roads. Not helpful when you want to do a tour to Copa Canyon. Still we managed to do it and got to see the giant condors which was cool, Christ they are big uns.
All in all it was great couple of weeks and brill to have my mate come over see me. It made me realise how much I miss the crack and the laughs - so nice one George it was a good un.
How was the Mighty George?
Well he kicked ass - I was impressed and to quote one of the fellow trekkers saying goodbye to George…
‘I will miss the comedy moments’
...the bear

Here Cometh The Mighty George!

Time for me to send another message to everyone even though nothing much to tell since the Galapagos Islands. I stopped off on my way south to Peru in Cuenca which was a nice colonial city with nice bars and cafes. First thing I did was to book myself into a half descent hotel with plenty of room, a nice big bed and red hot shower. After the boat experience it was not difficult, anything bigger than an average wardrobe would be luxury! I did one more stop in Ecuador which was in Vilacabamba a very quiet small town in the mountains. The scenery surrounding Vilacabamba was again lush - a great place to really relax. Another good spot for good value accommodation and food.
So now I am in Peru in the northern mountains at a city called Cajamarca - which is the best city from a not so good bunch.
First city I stopped at was Piura a small boring city with nowt to do so I headed to Trillio which was a large boring city. Got Trillio on Tuesday afternoon and left Wednesday morning. One good thing about Trillio is the one good coffee shop I have found so far in Peru. I'm sorry but there is no excuse for shit coffee. Peru's idea of coffee is a cup of hot water with brown grit in it. Dreadful!!!
Cajamarca is a nice spot actually. It has a great view point overlooking the city and surrounding mountains. The valleys and mountains on view from the bus ride from Trillio were awesome and its a nice change to see mountains with cloudless skies. - Good photos. I am just wasting some time here now ready for my 14 hour night bus to Lima, oh joy! Then I am in prime position to meet the Mighty George on Saturday night. Looking forward to seeing my buddy and having some laughs which will be making their way on this blog so keep em peeled. Time to go and prepare for this bus journey mind you it's nowt compared to the journey my mate will be doing from the Red Cow Werrington.
By the way anyone reading the blog feel free to post a comment it would be great to get some input from all you truckers out there!
So long for now...the bear

Doctor Doolittle in the Galapagos Islands.

Well the Galapagos Islands live up to the hype and expense. Its just amazing the close encounter you get with animals. You are obviously not allowed to touch them but I swear the wild animals are like pets, you could give 'em a tickle under the chin or a scratch behind the ear and they would not flinch especially the sea lions; half of them are on the footpaths, all over the beaches, I half expected get back to the boat and one be in me bed! Also got real close to all the land and sea birds like the Blue Footed Boobies, Albatrosses, Frigate Birds and much more, all there nesting. They are doing their mating rituals, looking after young all within 5 metres of you - some even closer.
There were also loads of different types of iguanas land and sea types of various shapes and colours. Not forgetting the Giant Tortoises which were bloody big and weird looking, with a head like ET. The scenery was not bad either lush beaches, weird volcanic landscapes like the moon with sheer cliff faces and lush blue turquoise seas.
Then we have the underwater stuff with the snorkeling been awesome. Loads of different coloured fish and massive shoals of them and nice coral. Managed to swim with sea lions which was great fun as they came well close to you - grabbing hold of your flippers and swimming so close to you it was like playing chicken with them. Also sea turtles, penguins, stingrays and loads of sharks and I still have all me limbs. Highlight of the snorkeling was seeing a Giant Manta Ray come swimming by really close, Jesus! it was massive and an awesome sight! Even the Giant Starfishes were cool lying on the bottom, all different colours I was in me element diving down to them take a closer look. I felt like Patrick Duffy, The Bear from Atlantis. The water was not as warm as I thought and you know how nesh I am!
The boat was OK and the other people on the tour were sound, had a good laugh with them as it was mainly a youngish group. The boat was a small boat especially as there were 16 of us in total. The crew and guide called the boat an economical boat, I call it a 'well tight fit mate!' The crew and guide were OK and the food was good. Mind you I got a few rollockings off the guide for venturing off the trail, what can I say - the photo I wanted needed a few extra yards and god loves a tryer! The guide even took me to one side at one point, bless him, because I was lagging behind, taking shots. I was tempted to tell stick to his guiding and leave me to take the photos and sling it!
All in all the Galapagos Islands were a major highlight.
At the moment I'm in Quenca, relaxing after last weeks exploits and still feeling like I'm still on the boat rocking. Shall head south towards Peru to meet the mighty mighty George as its the ten day count down till I meet him. All of you look after yourselves and I shall be in touch again soon - Love the bear.

Call Me Lance The Bear Armstrong!!

Greetings everyone.
Nice to hear the positive responses about the blog. Thought I would drop a quick line before I head off to the Galapagos Islands.
Since Quito I have been to Banos and Riobamba which are amongst some lush mountains and volcanoes. Done a bike ride in both towns and how different they were. Banios ride started great, not bad weather, great scenery with a few waterfalls thrown in. Then when I got to the furthest point of the day, about 20 kilometres from Banos it started pissing it down. Christ!
I was like a drowned rat so I decided to motor back. I seriously thought I was not going to make it, I'm not too proud to say I was knackered, me legs had gone. Mind you how I did not get run over and killed in the tunnel I had to walk through, I will never know. It must have been a good kilometre long, no lights I could not see jack!! I was walking into the tunnel walls & falling in the side ditch. I kissed the road like the bloody Pope when I got through!
Had to take the following day off recover and do some serious laundry.
Now the bike ride in Riobamba was part of a tour and was mint. We drove up to the foot of the biggest volcano in Equador, damn forgot the name. Chimbarazo I think. Its over 6000 metres high and the weather was clear so I got some great shots. Did a short walk to about 5000 metres with snow under my feet and the volcano right in me face. Then we rode the bike all the way down-hill to around 2500metres. The start of the downhill was off-road, I was in me element. Then, when we hit the tarmac I went for it - wow you pick up some speed. Got a little rollocking off the tour guide for leaving everyone eating my dust. I told the tour guide that's the Joe Mangel (gamble) my friend! Great to see snow capped mountains and volcanoes.

Bring on the Galapagos Islands...THE BEAR

Central America - Finished Off In Style!

Greetings hope everyone is well back in sunny England.
Well the first part of my trip is done, Central America is complete!
I took a flight from Panama City to Quito Equador in first class thank you very much. Could not believe it when I got to my seat and it was in the first class section. Who am i to argue so I took my very big leather seat and made myself at home. I could stretch me legs out and not touch the seat in front and - yes stewadess - I will have a drink before take off!

I have enjoyed Central America there has been some good stuff to see, even if at times I have been traveling pretty damn quick. Still being in Guatemala at the end of March was not planned and I was way behind schedule. Thats why I ain't really been in touch much over the last few weeks as its been full on traveling which is not my style, I like it nice and steady.
Main highlights after Guatemala were the time spent in Nicaragua especially Granada and a great tour done of Masaya volcano which was done around sunset with good views. Then as night fell we went to a couple of caves and watched the bats come out, christ there were thousands of them flying too close to you for comfort! Last stop on the tour was a view into Masaya volcano at night to see the lava and magna inside the crater.

Costa Rica was also a good spot which I will remember for the wildlife and rainforests right up to the beaches. Did a canopy tour in one of the cloud forests which was basically a wire over the top of the canopy maybe 40 metres up then you are flung down the wire on a harness, great fun. Also saw some nice volcanoes in Costa Rica shame though as it was the start of the rainy season, it was not raining a great deal but the tops of the volcanos were normally cloudy. Another reason to get a move on to South America.

Panama. - I just did a couple of stops the first in Bocas del Touro which is one of a set of islands in the Carribean. Again would of been a lush spot if there was lots of sunshine but it was mainly cloudy. Still went to a couple of beaches which were very nice - one being famous for starfish. Christ there were loads of them. Finished off in Panama City were it would be rude not to have look at the canal there. Amazing seeing massive cargo ships been raised and lowered in the locks. Its like the locks on Cauldon canal but alot bigger,you know the one!

Thats about it folks for now I shall be in touch again soon with news on how me Gallapagos Islands tour went, yes its booked for June the 10th for 8days can't wait me camera will be smoking out there.

All of you look after yourselves
be good - if not be bloody good at it! laters...the bear.

Introduction.

Welcome to 'Bear on Tour'...

This blog has been set up so that all us friends & family can keep up-to-date with The Bear's latest escapades, whereabouts & what he plans to do next on his latest overseas trip.

With the 'Bear on Tour' blog (if I can get Bear into using it!) he'll be able to post to a central place where we can all see what he's been up to & where he's going next without him having to write various emails.
Marge & Ken have sent me the photos he's taken so far & I've put them online for you to check out. (The link to Steve's photo library is on the right) At the moment I've only put 65 of the 300+ he's sent back. Over the next couple of weeks I will try to get the rest uploaded, it takes a lot of time/bandwidth up to do this, so please (bear) with me.

If you save this to your favourites & check in from time to time you'll be able to read his latest posts & send him messages via 'comments'.

Thanks for visiting - check in soon...